Bangkok – Suphanburi (Day 2)

Getting the feet wet.

I left the Hidden Holiday House after a delicious breakfast, Guai Chap (กวยจั๊บ), which is a soup prepared with rolled noodles, pork and blood cakes. I headed North along the Tha Chin river and passed through the small riverside town of Huay Plu. The area around the market was sandbagged and large pumps were on stand by, but the town center itself wasn’t flooded.

Not far out of town things changed, however. Soon I found myself on some dirt roads which had flooded recently. Even if the water had retreated it still was a soft and sticky mess. Impossible to ride here, no choice but pushing onward, with the red mud sticking to wheels and gears.

Soon I was back on a rideable gravel road, but the joy didn’t last. Sandbags were laid across at one point and it was knee deep water beyond. I peeked around the next corner, wading through the water, but there was no way to see for how long this flooded part would last. Since the next intersection was several kilometers away I returned to my bike, which I had left at the sandbag barrier, and quickly plotted a detour on a paved road. There were just a few short flooded sections there and I reached said intersection without any troubles.

From there on I had planned my route farther away from the Tha Chin river as there aren’t any small roads along the river bank here, just Route 3351. Numbered roads aren’t my cup of tea, fast traffic, no shade, no thanks.

“Inland” riding was much easier, until I reached Bang Pla, a small place back on the river. I ate two bowls of noodles in a little stall near the main intersection there. There wasn’t much choice in Bang Pla, if any, but it wasn’t needed – I love those soups!

After cruising around Wat Bang Pla it was back to flooded roads. The water wasn’t too deep here and it was nice to get the feet wet and splash it over my legs. After crossing Highway 346 it was detouring inland again, good riding on gravel roads.

Once I got closer to Bang Luang, which I planned to bypass to the West, my way was barred by large flooded areas. I looked for alternatives and found a way leading to the outskirts of Bang Luang. Near the turn off this farm road passed a property hidden under beautiful large trees, and guarded by a huge black dog.

The moment it spotted me I knew this would be different. No barking, just a swift trot towards me, the metal chain around its neck glittering in the sunlight. I immediately got off the bike and put it between me and the dog. I continued to walk, the dog following on the other side of the bike, looking at me, and gnarling. Once we reached the driveway leading to the property hidden under the trees the dog stopped and stood guard there. I gladly moved on and got back on the bike once a safe distance away.

Past Bang Luang I moved back away from the river once again and followed a canal towards my destination for the day. The farm road there was flooded at some points, but none too deep at first. The sun bathed the scenery in a beautiful warm light now, late in the afternoon. Another joyful section. I walked at times and pushed my bike along to be able to soak in the scenery instead of passing by rather quickly.

The very last part of this canal side farm road was once again impassable, just one big lake now. A quick detour on a main road and I reached the motel I had picked for the night. This place was not marked on maps and had no English sign. It was about 350m down the road (East) from the PTT station there. It was an older place, but good sized rooms, air-con, bathroom, clean, and a very good price.

After a wash up and change of clothes I rode another kilometer or so to a restaurant close to the river bank and Bang Sam riverside, where locals go and swim on weekends. This restaurant – cum resort as it turned out – was build around a pond with lots of salas to sit and dine. Food was delicious, and yes, there was cold Leo as well. I was shown the wooden bungalows available for the night as well. Those huts, complete with air-con and hot shower, were a little higher in price than the motel, but I certainly would stay here if overnighting again in this area!

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